U Trinighellu: the little trembler
The Corsicans affectionately call their train U Trinighellu — the little trembler. It is a narrow-gauge railway that runs through some of the most spectacular scenery in Europe: through deep valleys, over high viaducts, through tunnels blasted into rock and alongside mountain rivers. A train journey on Corsica is not simply a means of transport. It is an experience.
Two lines, countless views
The current network consists of two main lines:
- Bastia -- Ajaccio (157 km, approx. 3.5 hours): the main line that crosses the island via Ponte-Leccia and Corte. You ride through the heart of the mountains, past ravines and over impressive bridges.
- Ponte-Leccia -- Calvi (74 km, approx. 2 hours): a scenic branch line through the Balagne region, with wonderful stops at L'Ile-Rousse and along the coast.
There was once a third line, from Casamozza to Porto-Vecchio and Bonifacio. It was destroyed during the Second World War and never rebuilt. Whether it was sabotaged by the Corsicans or attacked by the occupiers, historians have yet to agree.
Insider tip On the Corte -- Ajaccio stretch, sit on the right side of the train. That's where you'll get the finest views over the valleys and mountains. Bring your camera.
A rich history
Construction began in 1888 under French administration. The goal was to make the remote mountain villages more accessible. Due to the extreme terrain, building was an enormous undertaking: bridges, tunnels and viaducts had to be constructed through solid granite.
The main Bastia-Ajaccio line was completed in 1894. The branch to Calvi followed in 1907, and the southern line to Porto-Vecchio in 1935. In the first half of the 20th century, the train was crucial for transporting agricultural products such as chestnuts, wine and olive oil to the port towns.
After the war, the railway fell into decline with the rise of the car. There was even talk of closing it down entirely. Fortunately, in the 1990s the decision was made to modernise the remaining lines. New, comfortable rolling stock arrived in 2012.
Bridges and viaducts
One of the highlights of the train journey is the engineering along the route. The line counts more than thirty bridges and viaducts, some spanning deep gorges at great height. The Viaduc du Vecchio near Venaco, designed by Gustave Eiffel, is the most famous: an elegant metal bridge 80 metres above the valley floor.
The train also passes through more than forty tunnels. In some places the track is so narrow and winding that the train crawls along at walking pace, which only makes the experience more impressive.
Practical information
- Tickets can be purchased at stations or online via the CFC (Chemins de Fer de la Corse)
- Trains run year-round, but services are more frequent in summer
- No reservation is needed, but it can get busy in summer
- Bicycles and large luggage cannot always be taken on board
Insider tip Combine the train with a hike. Step off at an intermediate station such as Vizzavona or Venaco, take a walk through the forest or along a river, and catch a later train back. That's Corsica at its very best.