Bonifacio is the kind of place you don't believe until you're standing there. A medieval city on white limestone cliffs, sixty metres above a turquoise sea, with Sardinia as a faint streak on the horizon. It's spectacular, and it knows it -- but that doesn't make it any less impressive.
The harbour
Start down below, at the marina in the narrow natural inlet that gives Bonifacio its sheltered position. On both sides, cliffs rise up, with the citadel sitting on top like a crown. The quayside is elegant: palm trees, expensive yachts, terraces overlooking the water. It's unmistakably Mediterranean and a touch exclusive, but the atmosphere is relaxed enough to simply eat an ice cream on a bench.
From the harbour, boat trips depart along the cliffs, and they're well worth it. Only from the water do you truly see how dramatically the city towers above you, and you'll sail past caves, rock formations and the famous U Diu Grossu -- a freestanding rock in the sea that looks like a giant grain of sand. The short one-hour trip gives you the best perspective on Bonifacio.
The citadel and the old town
The climb from the harbour to the citadel is steep but rewarding. Once through the gate in the thick fortress walls, you enter a labyrinth of narrow, cobblestoned streets with tall stone houses clinging to the edge of the cliff. This is the oldest town in Corsica, and it feels like it. The facades are weathered, the alleyways narrow and the glimpses of the sea far below are dizzying.
On the Rue des Deux Empereurs you'll find the houses where both Napoleon and Charlemagne once stayed -- directly opposite each other. Walk on to the end of the peninsula, where the streets grow narrower and the cliffs steeper. The cemetery at the far tip is one of the most beautiful in the Mediterranean: white graves on white rock above a blue sea.
The King of Aragon Staircase
One of the most remarkable sights is the Escalier du Roi d'Aragon, a steep stairway of 187 steps carved into the limestone cliff. According to legend in a single night, but that's a good story rather than documented history. The staircase is steep and the steps uneven, but the view halfway down over the cliffs and the sea is breathtaking. Sturdy shoes are a good idea.
The beaches nearby
The area around Bonifacio has some of the most beautiful beaches in Corsica. Palombaggia and Santa Giulia are the best known: long white sand, shallow turquoise water and an almost Caribbean feel. The bay of Rondinara, a perfect semicircle of sand, is regularly voted the most beautiful beach in France. Arrive early, because in summer these beaches are deservedly popular.
Practical tips
Parking in Bonifacio is a sport. Check the latest tips on the Bonifacio tourist office website. The car parks by the harbour are expensive and fill up quickly. Drive up to the top and park by the cemetery -- cheaper, quieter, and you start your visit right in the old town. Arrive before ten in the morning or in the late afternoon to avoid the worst crowds.
The Lavezzi Islands, a protected marine reserve just south of Bonifacio, are reachable by boat and perfect for a day of snorkelling in crystal-clear water. Book a day ahead in high season.
The feel of Bonifacio
Bonifacio is at its best in the evening, when the day-trippers have left and the citadel and cliffs are lit up. You sit on a terrace by the harbour, the warmth still lingers in the air and the white city glows above you like a mirage. It's touristy, it's crowded in summer and some restaurants are overpriced. But the setting is so surreally beautiful that none of it matters.